In his book, a Paddler's Guide to the Olympic Peninsula, Gary Korb describes Upper Matheny as containing 'some of the best and most scenic whitewater in Washington,' It truly is an Olympic Peninsula classic and one of the region's best creek runs for experienced class IV paddlers in an incredibly beautiful canyon. It has good access, great scenery, and plenty of fun pool-drop class IV rapids with unique and distinct characteristics. This run includes the class IV upper section and the class III middle section. The run is typically in during winter rain events but it can spike up or drop out quickly.
_Upper Matheny, class IV+, 2.5 miles_
You will likely start your run down the North Fork, a tight little tributary that will have you bouncing off lots of rocks. Stay well spaced and soon you'll be at the confluence with the South Fork and a fun rapid that starts things out with a big flush through a narrow constriction in the bedrock. Although not easily visible from the top of the rapid, there is a good recovery pool at the bottom.
Within a short distance the river plunges over the first of several great 6' ledge drops at the Tongue of Pleasure. The river calms down a bit while still providing constant action with some fun class III drops through the scenic bedrock canyon. The pace picks up again in a tight section with a number of ledges packed close to together, and the first of these is Shark Fin Falls which is the biggest ledge drop on the run. You can recognize it by the major tributary that comes in from the left just below it. What follows downstream of Shark Fin Falls is a fun class IV sequence of ledges that you will most likely be able to boat scout. This section is the highlight of the run and finishes off with a beautiful drop where a waterfall comes in from the right.
_Middle Matheny, class III, 6.2 miles_
Soon you will come to the 2160-080 bridge which crosses the river high above. This is the traditional dividing line for the upper and middle sections and although access is not great (not recommended as a take-out), it's a good landmark and obvious on the map. Intermediate paddlers comfortable on a creek run can join the group here. Just under the bridge the river starts its plunge through a final class IV sequence (visible from the bridge), before transitioning to class III with several rapids and boulder gardens for approximately 6 miles of scenic boating. If you arrive at the bridge with plans for the Upper and find the water too high, the Middle is always a good option.
If you do both the upper and middle section keep the short winter day length in mind and remember that this is a 9 mile creek run--come prepared with a long rope and flashlight. If you're with a really efficient group and get an early start you can always continue on for another 4.2 miles and run
Lower Matheny.
_Logistics_
Take-out: At mile 137.5 on Highway 101 take FR 21 east (this is also marked as West Boundary Road). Follow FR 21 to mile 7.9 and the takeout bridge across Matheny Creek (parking upstream river right). Continue another 200 yds. along FR 21 and turn right onto FR 2160.
Intermediate Access Point, Hook Branch Access: At mile 3.0 on Forest Road 2160, after crossing the Hook Branch which is a major tributary, you will come to another potential intermediate take-out (recommended if you get a later start). It is at a pullout on the right located directly across from the 2160-060 spur which heads up the hill to the left. It's about a 10 minute scramble down the bank to the river but you will need to mark it as there are few distinguishing features from the river (the culvert Korb mentions is long gone).
Middle Matheny Put-in, Forest Road 2160-080 Bridge Access: Continuing upriver on the 2160 to mile 5.1, you will pass the turn for the 2160-080 which heads down to the right and across a bridge. This bridge is the traditional dividing point between the upper and middle sections. This can be used as an alternate put-in for the middle section as you can scramble down on the river right side a couple hundred yards downstream of the bridge, but bring rope to assist your descent.
Upper Matheny Put-in, Forest Road 2160-100 Bridge Access: To reach the upper put-in, continue on the 2160 to mile 7.3 and a Y with the 2160 heading up the left (it's gated) and the 2160-100 heading down to the right. Follow the 2160-100 about 0.3 miles down to a bridge across the North Fork which is the put-in. As a final check on levels, this fork should have just enough water to float/bump your way down--if it's bone dry the canyon is probably too low and if it's a raging torrent the canyon is probably too high. Even at a good water level for Matheny, boating down this fork is a little bit absurd but it can still be fun (don't worry, once the South Fork joins in there is more water). It's about a quarter mile from the bridge to the confluence. Find a game trail through the forest if the North Fork paddling experience looks totally unappealing.
For current information on roads check the
Olympic National Forest web site (check rec reports for Pacific Ranger District - South), or call the USFS/NPS Resource Information Center in Forks 360-374-7566 or the USFS Ranger District office in Quinault 360-288-2525.
For additional information see
- Korb, G. 1997. A paddlers guide to the Olympic Peninsula. third edition.
- Bennett, J. and T. Bennett. 1997. A guide to the whitewater rivers of Washington, second edition. Swiftwater Publishing. Portland, OR.
- Pacific Ranger District, South -
USFS Olympic National Forest web site